UAE Moments: Interview with Chef Paco Morales

1. Who is Paco Morales?

I am Chef Paco Morales, a visionary culinary artist renowned for redefining traditional Spanish cuisine. Hailing from Córdoba, Spain, my inspiration springs from my grandmother's kitchen and the rich tapestry of Andalusian food culture. M[AW1] y family owned a local restaurant called The Asador de Nati, which inspired me to learn more the culinary industry. Between the ages of 11 and 18, I started learning cooking techniques which, later, helped me to gain 5 years of experience at a restaurant in San Sebastian.

Thereafter, I pursued formal culinary training in Spain under renowned chefs such as Ferran Adrià at El Bulli and Martín Berasategui. In 2010, I earned the first MICHELIN star for my restaurant in Bocairente.

In 2016, I started an innovative Moorish culinary concept, Noor, in Córdoba, aiming to transport guests to the era of Al-Andalus, incorporating flavours and recipes from ancient Andalusia reinterpreted with a modern touch.

With 20 years of experience, I approach Spanish gastronomy with a respect for local ingredients, culinary craftsmanship, and an unwavering pursuit of perfection. Beyond the culinary skills, I commit to preserving culinary heritage which has boosted my reputation as a culinary historian and a storyteller through the dishes I make.

2. Tell us more about your parents' chicken eatery and how did this shape you?

My journey began in the culinary world from my family’s eatery business[AW2] , The Asador de Nati in Córdoba, Spain. My earliest memories were of helping and supporting my family in the business. Despite my father only wanting me to chop onions and not cook, one day I decided to prove myself and show others that I could, indeed, cook and enter the culinary world.

I began my career by working with gastronomical giants, including Ferran Adrià at El Bulli and Martín Berasategu at Lasarte-Oria. Through the years, I learned how to look at things differently which resulted in 2004 while I was working at El Bulli and it was later on considered the best restaurant in the world. In addition, I learned how operations were important and realised that you while you can have a great idea, it is equally important to have an excellent execution.

I certainly proved my father wrong and decided to go and work with gastronomical giants, including Ferran Adrià at El Bulli and Martín Berasategu at Lasarte-Oria. I learnt how to look at things differently. In 2004, I was working at El Bulli, which was considered the best restaurant in the world.

To continue my culinary path, I started my own business in Madrid which is a bar and restaurant. With dedication and gaining culinary expertise, it led me to achieve my first MICHELIN star, which is considered a significant milestone in my career.

3. Your first MICHELIN star at Paco Morales? How did this happen and did you expect it?

In 2010, I achieved my first career goal, obtaining my first MICHELIN star at my restaurant in Bocairente. Later, in 2016, my restaurant Noor in Córdoba earned two MICHELIN stars in less than three years.

I honestly didn't expect this accomplishment, given the challenges I faced, including the closure of two previous restaurants. Operating my third restaurant independently and without partners, I had doubts about meeting the required standards for such recognition. During this period, my father became a source of motivation, suggesting that having achieved one and two MICHELIN stars meant the next milestone would be securing three MICHELIN stars.

4. Middle Easterners have special connection to Spain and specifically to Al-Andalus. How did Noor concept come about?

My connection to Spain and Al-Andalus inspired me to create Noor restaurant. The concept originated from my passion for cooking and my desire to combine history with modernity, Noor emerged as a cultural project with roots tracing back to the 10th century in Spain. Unveiled in Córdoba in 2016, the restaurant aims to transport guests to the era of Al-Andalus, presenting flavors and recipes from ancient Andalusia with a modern twist. Noor swiftly gained acclaim, achieving two MICHELIN stars in just over three years, along with numerous other awards.

Dedicated to historical authenticity, Noor exclusively uses ingredients from the 10th to the 14th centuries, embodying honest and heartfelt cooking with a historical touch. This approach not only defines Noor but also serves as a foundation for Qabu, my upcoming restaurant at The Link, One&Only One Za’abeel in Dubai. Qabu will incorporate Andalusi culture and touches, presenting dishes that span a historical journey from the 10th to the 18th centuries.

As a culinary historian, I discover long-lost ingredients, techniques, and recipes, sharing stories through my dishes. Recognizing Córdoba's appeal to tourists for its rich history, I aim to extend my experience through Noor’s menu and give inspiration from different centuries. One of my notable dishes, the Door of Forgiveness, which was named after a door in the Cathedral of Córdoba

5. How does food connect people and culture?

Food serves as a powerful connector between people and cultures. At Noor, this connection is showcased through dishes like the one featuring dried fruits and almonds sourced from China, Lebanon, Syria, and Andalusia. This blend of ingredients symbolizes a harmonious fusion of diverse cultures on a single plate.

One notable dish at Noor is named "Kareem" in the Arab world, it signifies kindness and generosity. When you enjoy this dish, it's more than just eating – it's an experience that reflects the values of kindness and giving. Essentially, through food, Noor brings together different cultures, helping people appreciate diversity and shared humanity.

6. What advice do you give to young aspiring chefs?

For young aspiring chefs, my advice is to have good ideas and work effectively. Working hand in hand and supporting each other, you'll be able to achieve what you want and reach your goals. Focus on competing with yourself rather than others, setting personal goals to strive towards. This approach will contribute to your growth and success in the culinary world.

7. Tell us more about Qabu in the Link, what will it offer to locals & expats in the UAE?

With earning two MICHELIN stars, I have explored "Moorish" recipes, by bringing them to life with my contemporary and innovative Andalusian culinary artistry at Qabu by Paco Morales.

Located in The Link, the world's longest cantilevered building, nestled between the iconic towers of One&Only One Za’abeel, this architectural marvel promises to be a cultural, culinary, and entertainment hub. With its elegant design, breath-taking views across the Dubai skyline and enticing menu, we anticipate it becoming one of Dubai's most exclusive destinations. Qabu by Paco Morales is set to make its grand debut in January/February 2024.

Qabu promises to transport diners to the vibrant and culturally rich city of Cordoba, Spain, in Dubai. The dining experience celebrates Cordoba's diverse and storied heritage, where typical flavours harmonize with a modern twist, delivering an unforgettable culinary adventure that pays homage to past traditions while embracing the future.