True Oud, the Herrera Confidential fragrance,
explores and celebrates an aroma that is deeply rooted in arab tradition
The woody-floral formula of this Eau de Parfum is inspired by a sign of identity and belonging:
the powerful accord of Oud as it is burned during Middle Eastern ceremonies or on special
occasions with family and friends.
The fundamental role of aromas in Arab culture is something that Carolina A. Herrera is very
familiar with. She discovered it on the many trips she made with her mother to the Gulf,
where she visited markets and immersed herself in the unique world of oriental perfumes. In
2017 she created the Eastern Treasures family of perfumes (part of the Herrera Confidential
collection and including Gold Incense, Platinum Leather, Bronze Tonka, Gold Myrrh
Absolute and True Oud), inspired by Arab perfumery. True Oud, is a perfume inspired by the
Carolina Herrera beauty creative director’s latest experience in the heart of the Middle East:
what she smelled, felt and learned as a guest as night fell and she joined family
celebrations, and all with one special ingredient. Oud.
“A lot has been said about these rituals. Most people know that the furniture and furnishings
are perfumed before guests arrive as a sign of respect, and that when you sit around the table
there is always an oil burner. But being there and observing first-hand is when you understand
that the importance of aroma goes beyond hospitality,” Carolina A Herrera explains. It’s really
about their identity, it’s what defines them.” She was accompanied on her trip by perfumer
Jordi Fernández, who has spent over 20 years learning about Middle Eastern traditions and
has superb insider knowledge. He showed Herrera that many people come home from work
in the afternoon and spend their time in living rooms and dining areas with family and friends.
Any guests are invited to assess the quality of what they are going to burn.
On special occasions, they bring out some of the most sought-after ingredients in perfume.
Oud is just such an ingredient. It comes from the Aquilaria tree, although not just any Aquilaria
tree. Out of a hundred trees, only a few will produce the dark, aromatic resin that can take up
True Oud, the Herrera Confidential fragrance,
explores and celebrates an aroma that is
deeply rooted in arab tradition
to fifty years to form. That is why its essential oil is compared to liquid gold and why as soon
as she sat at the table the beauty creative director was asked to preside over testing the Oud
with a glass of water. “The Oud splinters did not float, which meant it was very high-quality,
“she explains. Normally from there begins an afternoon accompanied by tea, coffee and dates
as the smoke from the burning splinters slowly impregnates every detail, from clothes to
hair and the curtains and even the conversation itself. The fragrance seeps into the laughter,
anecdotes and intimate confessions.
Even the memory of these afternoons are imbued with the aroma, months or maybe years later.
In fact, burning Oud is central part of the culture. It is something people from the Middle East
associate with home no matter where in the world they are. If you grew up in the Middle East,
if you smell Oud being burnt in London, New York, Madrid or Shanghai you’re immediately
transported to times with your loved ones, surrounded by them at home.
“For me, there’s no more precious aroma than a personal one because it’s about you and
that’s something you should want to shout from the rooftops,” explains Carolina A Herrera.
She describes how the fifth perfume in the Eastern Treasures family is designed to do just
that: “The idea is that, whether you’re a man or a woman, the fragrance is present at important
times with your loved ones and creates a powerful sillage that will follow you wherever you go
and speak about who you are and where you’re from.” Essentially, highlighting the roots that
make each of us genuine and authentic.
How the woody-floral formula of True Oud was created
After her visit to the Middle East, she knew immediately that the new unisex fragrance should
be based on natural Oud, while avoiding the more common touches that it acquires in perfumes
such as a more animal feel or spicy components. Instead, to enhance the formula, perfumer
Jordi Fernández explored the least known facets of the ingredient, its floral features, which he
combined with a woody cocktail of base notes that, when bottled, recreate the same nuances
as Oud used in the air like incense.
“We needed to achieve that aroma because it’s what really defines experiences among family
and friends and what creates those moments at home. And because it’s a much more intense
aroma than an essential oil,” the perfumer explains, “we needed to work with Oud that can
be produced sustainably so that it doesn’t lose its strength and purity over time.” The Oud in
this fragrance has that purity: it has been grown in Thailand for decades. The formula is also
cleverly mixed with 10 other accords, all responsibly produced and precisely developed:
-The base notes… sandalwood essential oil (from various regions in Western Australia)
provides the soft, creamy texture required by the earthy and woody notes of Patchouli
heart (from Sulawesi in Indonesia) combined with a spicy touch of Akigalawood, musk and a
generous helping of Ambrofix.
-The heart notes… are exclusively sweet. Oil from Thai Oud trees, profound and complex
(certified by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and
Flora), combines with the balsamic touch of myrrh resin. The fresh jasmine blossom from
Egypt creates a fruity sensation at the heart of the fragrance.
-The top notes… the whole fragrance fills the air as soon as it is used. What helps it do this is
the Osmanthus blossom (from China) with an apricot-like feel, as well as olive which is
enriched with saffron and freesia accords. The result is light but, as with Oud incense, True
Oud’s mission is not to create an immediate shock, but to create a halo of fragrance that is at
first subtle, but evokes intense and powerful memories when encountered again.
When trying to express something as complex as identity and roots, what is needed is
persistence rather than immediate impact. That is why True Oud embraces Middle Eastern
layering rituals to ensure that its floral-woody formula can intermingle and be personalised
with other aromas from the Herrera Confidential collections. In fact, the refinement of True
Oud is further highlighted when combined with just a few drops of Sandal Ruby, Emerald
Musk, Saffron Lazuli, Iris Empire or Amethyst Haze; Eaux de Parfums inspired by precious
stones and all belonging to the Herrera Gems line.
Anyone looking to add a sophisticated accord can create a sillage using one of the six
fragrances from the signature collection: Herrera Tuberose, Burning Rose, Amber Desire,
Nightfall Patchouli, Oud Couture and Mystery Tobacco. But what if you want something more
opulent? That is easy. From Gold Incense or Platinum Leather, to Bronze Tonka or Gold Myrrh
Absolute, any exotic aroma that you choose from Eastern Treasures will enhance the potency
of True Oud.
This custom couture spirit was also something that the beauty creative director experienced
during her trip: when the evenings finished she noticed how a tray of perfumes was passed
around for each guest to create their own personal fragrance there and then as a keepsake.
“Instead of taking a photo of everyone together, which is what we’d do in the West, they
prefer to remember important moments through aroma. This means they can relive them
when they’re far away, or remember the day they met someone special or share them with
future children and grandchildren,” Carolina A Herrera explains. “There are many ways of
remembering who is who, but I honestly think this is the nicest, most fulfilling way of doing
that.”
About Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera is an international fashion and beauty house recognized for its colorful, joyful
and confident take on life. Founded in 1981 by Carolina Herrera, the eponymous label’s scope
has steadily grown and now includes ready-to-wear clothing and accessories for women, men,
and children, as well as bridal wear, fragrances, and makeup. The House’s fragrance adventure
began in 1988 with the launch of Carolina Herrera’s first eau de parfum. In 1996, Mrs. Herrera’s
daughter, Carolina A. Herrera, joined the company for the launch of 212 and was appointed to
the role of Beauty Creative Director in 2020. Today, she leads a division that comprises over
20 fragrances with a presence in more than 120 countries worldwide - including the Herrera
Confidential collection, CH, Bad Boy and the wildly successful Good Girl and 212 - and is also
responsible for the brand’s first-ever makeup line, Herrera Beauty. A quintessentially New York
brand, the House of Herrera is defined by its three lines: Helmed by Creative Director Wes
Gordon, Carolina Herrera New York embodies the fearless & fabulous women of today who
aren’t afraid to stand out in style. CH Carolina Herrera portrays a bold, solar and free-spirited
approach to fashion and beauty. Finally, 212 Carolina Herrera is aligned with the fresh energy
of young New Yorkers who live for parties and shared experiences. Known for embracing
elegance with a touch of irreverence, the brand’s fashion and beauty collections reflect the
iconic style and effortless sophistication inherent to its founder, Carolina Herrera. Follow @
carolinaherrera on Instagram and Facebook.com/CarolinaHerreraNY for the latest news.